In the wide wild land of Indian textiles, uniqueness is the only thing to seek for. Every Indian state holds a regional identity in terms of Bandhani textiles. The talent, artistry and variation that the regional weavers showcase are noteworthy! Uniqueness is best seen when in harmony with the wearer’s aesthetic. Updated Textile engineering and mass-scale production ensure that the unique bandhani-weaved sarees are available to all in need.
The art form attached to these sarees is mesmerizing in themselves. The colours find soul in the patterns when a skilled craftsman touches them. Bandhani sarees uplift not just our cultural heritage but also the craftsmen’s.
A Glimpse into Bandhani’s Origins
Bandhani sarees originated over 5000 years ago. Etymologically, it means ‘to tie’; the word is in its verb form. These hail from the land of Gujrat and Rajasthan. The prevalence of meticulous tie-dye is found there. The skilled craftsmen create highly unique patterns through that process. Being mesmerizing, Bandhani sarees were once worn exclusively by the royals.
Due to high-scale production, anyone can own one of these priceless sarees. They are worn best on auspicious ceremonies, including marriages, festivities and other community celebrations. The craft, much like the sarees, is passed on intergenerationally.
Techniques of Bandhani
- Tying the Fabric: The fabric is tied well at particular places with strings or rubber bands to ensure the creases are properly done. Then they are submerged into dyed liquids, they get exposed to the colour for a few hours to ensure that the colour has set in effectively.
The patterns formed out of this process are unique as every saree will have some kind of pattern which will be one of a kind and can not be predetermined. This positive guessing factor around the sarees designs and manufacturing makes it a high-demand drape, not just in Maharashtra or the country of India, but worldwide.
- Natural Dyes:Bandhani saree weavers never compromise the quality of the sarees. Therefore, natural dyes are always a must in the process. It is ethical, safety standards are secured, and durable in the long run. Imagine yourself in an artificially coloured saree; you go out in the sun and start sweating. Suddenly your body’s moisture makes the color of your saree leak out on your skin causing you to have a breakout in the middle of nowhere!
To avoid such chemical repercussions and to follow the long tradition of using natural dyes, especially extracted from plants, roots, and other natural sources. The colour palettes found in the modern day are immense to experiment with.
- Untying and Finishing:Once completely soaked in the natural dye for 3-4 hours, the sarees take in the hue. They are then carefully untied. Their unique patterns slowly revealed. Finally, the fabric is washed and dried to enhance its colourful appearance.
The Artistry and Patterns
Bandhani sarees offer an unlimited range of patterns, each signifying the region or subregion to which it belongs. The patterns have a deep rural core in them, and thus they have their identity and narratives that they carry within their colours.
Some of the prominent and widely known Bandhani patterns are:
- Chunri: Featuring largely in Hindi cinema, these patterns feature small dots or squares throughout the body of the saree. This pattern might look like scattered grains from a distance.
- Leheriya: Such patterns are widely seen in Indian daily soaps, where the housewives (‘bahu’s) wear these. The narratives around this pattern have a familial and homely feel to it. The mother-in-law (Saas) is often seen wearing the same pattern as the bahu and giving her life lessons about managing a family successfully. The patterns are wavey, usually with red, yellow and green colours.
- Shikari: These can be called the jungle print variants as they have hunting scenes showcasing minute visual tales of animals and birds.
- Ekdali and Trikunti: Featuring single and triple knots, these designs are geometric. They are usually minimalist in their appeal.